Taking It Personally: Reclaiming Purpose In a Fractured Luxury Landscape
THOUGHT PIECE by designer Alli Abdelal
[Spring 2025, Oxford]
"Obscene Prices, Declining Quality: Luxury Is In A Death Spiral"—a headline from a recent opinion piece in the New York Times could read like a death knell for the industry. At first glance, we brace for a sobering read. Instead, the article is a timely and incisive call to action, urging consumers to move beyond the oversaturated, spectacle-driven mainstream and seek out the quiet revolutionaries of the luxury world: independent brands that are redefining excellence with purpose and restraint. Far from merely lamenting the state of modern luxury, it challenges us to reexamine our values and celebrate doing things differently. For brands like ours, it is encouragement to remain small, to grow with intention rather than chasing the reckless pursuit of scale. We understand that true luxury lies in authenticity, craftsmanship, and a steadfast commitment to values—not in empty displays of grandeur or the fleeting allure of mass appeal. In a world increasingly shaped by passing trends and diluted standards, the New York Times article shines a necessary spotlight on those creating products with purpose and with the deepest respect for their people, craft and the environment. It is a fresh rallying cry for thoughtful discovery, for finding the rare and remarkable in an age that too often settles for the ubiquitous.
For some time, we have deliberately avoided the use of the term "luxury," recognising that it has become a hollow expression in contemporary discourse. For us, luxury was always synonymous with enduring quality, craft, and timeless design—values that resonate on a deeper, more personal level. Yet, in the context of this discussion, we find it appropriate to redeploy the word, as we are at a crossroads where luxury, in its most meaningful sense, is being recalibrated. What we are witnessing is a significant paradigm shift in the luxury market. Consumers, increasingly attuned to the ethical and environmental implications of their purchases, are gravitating toward products that reflect a deeper, more meaningful definition of luxury.
In our Oxford studio, discussions with clients increasingly reflect a shared disinterest in the superficiality of momentary trends and inflated marketing narratives. Instead, there is a distinct alignment with values that prioritise artisanal workmanship and slower, considered production methods. These conversations are not merely transactional; they are shaping the trajectory of our design process, ensuring that each collection resonates. As clients seek products that reflect lasting value, the studio’s approach becomes ever more attuned to their expectations—selecting materials with purpose and employing techniques that speak to the craftsmanship behind each piece. In this context, the dialogue with customers becomes integral to the creation of each new design that transcend the transitory nature of contemporary fashion, focusing instead on timelessness and integrity. By aligning with these values, the studio is not only responding to a demand but is also driving the evolution of what luxury means in an era where artisans are respected for their expertise, and materials are carefully chosen for their environmental impact.
This movement marks a departure from the traditional emphasis on exclusivity and price, towards a preference for authenticity, responsibility, and craftsmanship. The allure of high-priced, mass-produced goods with little intrinsic value is fading. Instead, the demand is growing for objects that embody ethical practices.
As designers navigating the shifting tides of the luxury market, we see that the path forwards lies in reclaiming purpose—moving beyond a marketing-driven conception of luxury toward one anchored in longevity, and meaningful creation. At its core, this is a return to first principles: a focus on material excellence, meticulous craftsmanship, and a design ethos that values restraint over excess.
The future belongs to design that endures—pieces that integrate seamlessly into our daily lives, where value is derived from need, not spectacle with the quiet assurance of things made well. We believe true luxury is about refinement, function, and a deep connection between the design and the owner. It is about materials chosen with care, design that withstands time, and craftsmanship that holds meaning beyond its aesthetic appeal.
For those of us working within this space, the direction is clear: continue, with quiet confidence to create with purpose; investing in quality, artistry, and lasting relevance while making considered choices that reflect not only our creative vision but our commitment to a more responsible future.