A Giant At Rest
Reflections while Roaming with RUSKIN - Cairo August 2024
Cairo is a city that never truly sleeps. In the early hours between 3 am and 5 am it breathes and slumbers with the slow, rhythmic cadence of a giant at rest. The noise of car horns and the rumble of trucks abates in these hours leaving the thick air quiet; broken only by the calls to prayer reverberating through the streets from minarets that stand tall, watching out like sentinels across the city. 
I know this because the first two nights when we arrive in Cairo are restless. I always find myself awake in those early hours. I have been visiting Cairo on and off for the last eighteen years now. My husband, who is American/Egyptian or Egyptian/American depending on where he is at, spent his summers growing up in the narrow streets, rubbing shoulders and playing soccer with cousins, dodging pedestrians and parked cars, in the well-to-do neighbourhood of Heliopolis.
After 5 am the giant, rich with potential and latent energy, slowly stirs and the relentless march of a new day begins. It feels different this time. Two years on from our last visit, Cairo seems poised on the brink of profound progress and change, preparing to reshape itself in ways that could redefine its role on the global stage. For centuries, the city has been a hub of culture, history, and politics in the Arab world, carrying the weight of its ancient past as it gazes towards the future. Significant investment has been poured into the city’s infrastructure in recent years with new apartment blocks, roads and bridges appearing daily, apparently without rhyme or reason and much to the bemusement of family members when asked about them. On the surface, these ‘improvements’ are aimed to alleviate chronic traffic congestion and modernise the city's transit options, making daily life more efficient for millions of residents. Additionally, the construction of the new administrative capital east of Cairo represents a bold step towards decentralizing government functions and reducing the pressures on Cairo's overcrowded systems. Cairo's economy is diversifying beyond traditional sectors such as tourism and agriculture. The rise of technology startups and the creative industries reflects a burgeoning entrepreneurial spirit, driven by a young, tech-savvy population. Culturally, Cairo is experiencing a renaissance. The city's art, music, and literature scenes are vibrant, with a new wave of artists and creators exploring contemporary issues through their work. This cultural vitality is not just a reflection of artistic expression but also a commentary on the social and political changes sweeping through the country. From street art to independent films, these creative outlets are giving voice to new ideas and challenging old paradigms. Sporting clubs are integral parts of the city's social and cultural fabric, providing spaces where people come together to train, socialise, and be part of a community. 
The giant's awakening is not without challenges as the pace of change exacerbates social inequalities and the benefits of progress fail to reach all segments of society equally. Further, ongoing political and economic uncertainty creates instability to stall the momentum of change.
At the heart of Cairo's transformation, ancient heritage, with iconic landmarks like the Pyramids of Giza, and the bustling streets and bazaars of Old Cairo, form a bedrock of cultural and historical significance. As the city embraces modernity, this deep connection to the past will always provide a sense of identity. Much of the grandeur remains, but the wear is evident - a reminder that even the mightiest structures are not immune to the ravages of time. The sheer scale of protecting and restoring not just these ancient monuments but also the fabric of the city is no small feat. As we visited the pyramids and tombs, which have recently opened at Saqqara it was obvious that economic pressures are sometimes leading to expedient but less historically sensitive restoration practices that diminish the original beauty of these relics of the past. 
As an interested observer I am endlessly fascinated by the colossus that is Cairo. Daily the city comes alive with colour and sound in the chaotic markets, the honking of taxis, the rhythmic clip-clop of the horse-drawn carriages and the trademark cry of the Roba Vecchia (rag and bone) trader as he roams the neighbourhoods buying and selling unused household items. Even in the chaos, there is an allure to Cairo that draws the curious and the dreamers, who find in the city's vibrant energy a constant source of inspiration.
As the giant stirs, gradually awakening to a new era of progress and change, all eyes (certainly mine) are focussed on how deftly the giant can hold onto the past while stepping into the future.
Words: Founder/Designer alli Abdelal
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