Tablecloth Clouds Over the Western Cape

A Roaming with RUSKIN story — South Africa

by Emma Lavelle

Cape Town hadn’t really been on my radar until a job opportunity popped up, and suddenly I was hooked on the idea. Abundant wildlife, dramatic landscapes, endless vineyards and a picturesque coastline – all with a bustling city at its heart. Flights were booked in a blur, and suddenly I was counting down the weeks. Packing lightly in just a carry-on suitcase for nine days of travel, I needed a handbag that would carry me from wine tasting to mountain tops; something small and sleek that I could wear each day alongside my cumbersome camera bag. RUSKIN’s Petite Camille in a goes-with-everything bracken hue was the perfect travel companion.

My adventure began in the city itself, with 48 hours spent rushing around at a pace I would normally shun as I sampled the city’s finest brunch, lunch, dinner and afternoon tea spots, all in the name of research for a feature I was working on. I’m not a city girl (I live in the countryside and am always drawn to bucolic landscapes), and so the Petite Camille’s compact size and proximity to my body gave me peace of mind as I tucked just my phone, bank card and room key inside and tried not to fret about pickpockets between scones and salads. 

On the Tuesday morning, my boyfriend and I rose early to head to the top of Table Mountain. As became a habit on this trip, I carried just my bare essentials in my Petite Camille and lugged my camera bag on my shoulder. There are two options to ascend South Africa’s most iconic mountain; sadly we didn’t have the time nor the energy for the challenging hike to the top and opted for the rotating cable car which offered jaw-dropping views of the city and bay. As we rose above the clouds, I briefly panicked that they'd obscure our views, yet the addition of light clouds only added to the dramatic vistas that greeted us at the top. Not only did we fall in love with the city and its surroundings from our bird’s eye vantage point, but we came face to face with a dassie – a curious mammal that looks similar to a large rodent yet is more closely related to elephants.

Our next stop was a hotel that had captivated my attention since it opened its doors in 2022: Sterrekopje Farm. Here, we spent three blissful days completely slowing down. Each day began with a wander around the farm, greeting the animals and admiring the productive gardens before a nourishing breakfast in the orangerie. When I didn’t have my camera in hand, I was being pampered in the bath house, swimming and paddle boarding in the dam, and lounging on our suite’s stoep, obsessing over Franschhoek’s majestic scenery. With only 11 suites and a relaxed ambiance, we left our doors wide open and carried only swimwear and books – although my Petite Camille made an appearance each evening for a golden hour garden stroll and dinner beside a roaring fire.

Tearing ourselves away from Sterrekopje, we moved just ten minutes down the road to a wine estate where we spent two nights in a traditional Cape Dutch ‘cottage’. At this point, the weather turned autumnal with gale-force winds and torrential rain driving us indoors where a cosy lounge complete with wood-burning stove beckoned. Wine tasting surrounded by a sculpture garden tempted us back outdoors, Petite Camille once again proving the perfect compact bag when all you need is your bank card, phone and room key (and umbrella firmly in hand). 

Finally, we drove back to the city, where we would spend our final two nights in South Africa. On our last day, we hired a tour guide to show us the sights of Table Mountain National Park and to look out for local wildlife. Boulder’s Beach was a highlight, watching Africa’s only penguin colony scuttle around an otherworldly beach from a viewing deck, before seeking them out in the undergrowth and scurrying over gigantic boulders to catch a closer glimpse. We also spotted more dassie lounging in the sun on the sand. Navigating mountain passes, I was thrilled when a baboon raced past us on the side of the road. Our last stop was Hout Bay, where we met the infamous Seal Whisperer who calls Cape fur seals out of the watery depths onto the harbour. Finally, we dined on the best fish and chips I’ve ever tasted at Fish on the Rocks, a local favourite for generations.

Back at our hotel, we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink on our balcony overlooking Table Mountain. Sadly, the mountains ‘tablecloth’ clouds refused to shift, but we still enjoyed impressive views of the city and the colourful houses of Bo Kaap below. As the sun set on our nine days in the southern hemisphere, my mind was busy plotting future trips to this land that had captured my heart. 

Emma travelled with her Petite Camille in bracken. 

With gratitude to Emma Lavelle.

Emma Lavelle is a writer and photographer, capturing slow-luxury travel narratives for clients including Condé Nast Traveller, Mr & Mrs Smith, Country Life and Blumenhaus.