A Sunshine Loving Soul

A ROAMING WITH RUSKIN STORY - CATALONIA

by Emma Lavelle

I always plan a trip to southern Europe as the UK descends into autumn. As the days shorten and temperatures begin to plummet, my sunshine-loving soul requires one last burst of summer before I can bear to bundle up in knitwear and switch on the heating. While past trips have focused around lazing beside the sea and spending as much time as possible floating in the Mediterranean, Adriatic and Aegean seas, my heat-averse boyfriend wished to accompany me on this October’s sojourn. After deliberating compromise destinations where I’d get my sea fix but keep him happy with mountain landscapes, we settled on nine days exploring Catalonia.

As someone who travels often for work (this was my eighth trip abroad this year) I have finally mastered the art of packing (somewhat) lightly. We both packed a carry-on suitcase each, and my camera bag fit snugly inside an oversized woven tote that would double-up as a beach bag – but we were on the hunt for a backpack that could meet under seat baggage allowance, that we could take with us on hikes, and that I’d also want to wear in the evenings for drinks and dinner.

The Kepler in Bracken leather and tweed fit the brief perfectly; we easily fit all our essentials inside while I’d steal it off my boyfriend each time we ventured out at night. I also fit my Petite Camille in matching bracken inside to store my phone, bank card and room key.

We began our trip in the mountains, picking up a hire car at Girona airport and driving 1.5 hours north-west to a small town called Molló in the Catalonia Pyrenees. We based ourselves here for two nights, staying in an apartment I’d booked mainly for its impressive corner balcony, offering views of the surrounding rolling hills and towering peaks in the distance. Constant clouds and occasional downpours somewhat thwarted our time in the mountains, but we did manage to take a daytrip to Vall de Núria, a beautifully untouched valley only accessible via a solar-powered rack railway. The Kepler accompanied us that day, stuffed full of water bottles and waterproof jackets as we ventured even higher into the mountains on the Coma del Clot cable car. The sun thankfully made an appearance as we enjoyed a short hike, soaking up the dramatic vistas and watching marmots scurry between their burrows from afar.

Our second destination was just an hour east, staying at Off Grid Girona, a 17th century masia amidst a bucolic landscape. Tucked away on a quiet country lane on the edge of La Garrotxa (a sprawling national park known for its dormant volcanos), Off Grid Girona has just ten en-suite bedrooms and three communal lounges stocked with honesty bars, subsequently having more of a homely vibe than your typical boutique hotel. 

The rain continued to pour during our stay (my dreams of a late European summer looking less and less likely) but whenever there was a break in the clouds I was drawn to the water like a magnet.

I swam languid lengths in Off Grid’s generously sized pool, and we visited the Lake of Banyoles just down the road (I fit all my wild swimming gear comfortably into the Kepler backpack). While thunder boomed outside, I was perfectly content to curl up on one of the many sofas scattered over the hotel’s three floors (plus a library mezzanine) with a book. On our final evening, the hotel’s chef served a community style banquet to us plus four other guests. We chatted to couples from New York and Berlin while passing delectable dips, warm flatbread, hearty salads and an abundance of further sharing dishes back and forth across the table.

The final stop on our winding road trip was the picturesque fishing village of Cadaqués in Alt Empordà, right at the top of the Costa Brava (Catalonia’s ‘wild coast’). Home to Salvador Dalí for fifty years, Cadaqués has avoided mass development thanks to its enviable position tucked away in the Cap de Creus natural park, accessed only via one steep and winding road that navigates the hills. Here, the sun finally shone and I was treated to the last of the summer weather I’d been craving. We spent much of our time wandering the town’s streets, seeking out the best swimming spots, and discovering the best bars (Can Set and Brown Sugar were visited daily) and ice cream (JOIA serves possibly the best ice cream and sorbet I’ve ever tasted, with many unique flavours to try).

We did venture out of town one day, packing up our Kepler backpack with everything we’d need for a 2.5 hour hike to the eastern tip of the Iberian peninsula. Our destination was Cap de Creus Restaurant, perched atop a cliff with panoramic views of the Catalan and French coastlines and the Pyrenees. Here, we feasted on baked fish, sipped sangria and deliberated whether to hike home or to hop on the bus (we opted for the bus, but took a short detour to swim in a secluded bay before walking back into town).

Via a short stop for a swim at Cala Sa Tuna (a tiny cove nestled beneath the cliff-top town of Begur) we headed back to the airport, bags packed with still-wet salty swimwear. This was my second time visiting Catalonia (the first being a walking holiday along the Costa Brava a couple of years ago); witnessing the dramatically different landscapes from towering mountain peaks and tree-covered extinct volcanoes to fishing coves and craggy coastlines has made me fall even deeper in love with this region. If, like me, you’re seeking a balance of hiking and swimming on your European jaunts, earmark Catalonia as your next destination – Kepler backpack in hand for all those long walks that end with a dip.